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You are here: Home / Archives for Prusik Knot

A Comprehensive Guide to Tarp and Tent Guy Lines

January 19, 2017 by Mike 2 Comments

A Comprehensive Guide to Tarp and Tent Guy Lines

If you are a tarp enthusiast then you already know that a ridge line is the backbone and guy lines are the appendages of this structure. Guy Lines are tensioned cables or lines designed to add stability to a free-standing structure. In this video I am going to cover several different ways to set up guy lines so you can set up your tarp for maximum comfort.

Line

A variety of line one can choose from for their outdoor experience.

There are a lot of different cordages that one could choose when setting up your ridge or guy lines, and some are better than others, but ultimately it comes down to personal preference. Traditionalists and reenactors typically use natural fibers, and survivalists and preppers tend to favor paracord. I’ve seen ultralight guys use mason’s line, many people in the hammock community use Lash-it or Zing-it line, and others will use whatever is available. After using a variety different kinds of line, my preference is Zing-it because it is lightweight, strong, it is not slippery so it easily holds friction hitches, and it has little stretch under tension.

Zing-it line is common amongst the hammock community.

Attachment to Tarp

Bowline Hitch

One of the most common ways to attach your line to a tie out or grommet is by using a Bowline Hitch. Feed your line into the tie out, then form a loop in the standing part of the line with the working part on top. Now feed the working end through the back of the loop, behind and around the standing line and back through the loop once more, then tighten. Or, instead of attaching your line directly to your tie outs, you can tie a loop onto one end of your guy lines and either girth hitch it onto the tie outs or use small carabiners for quick attachment and detachment.

Attachment to Stake

From left to right, clove hitch, marlin spike hitch, and a round turn and two half hitches.

In a previous video I showed how to tie off guy lines to your stakes, but in case you didn’t see it, here is a quick recap. A clove hitch, a marlin spike hitch and a round turn and two slippery half hitches are three great knots that will do the trick.

Adjustable Knots

Now that we know how to attach our guy lines and tie off our stakes, lets take a look at how we can add tension to our lines using a variety of hitches.

Trucker’s Hitch

Trucker’s Hitch with a figure of eight loop and a slippery half hitch.

Lets start this out with one of the most used knots to add tension to a line: a trucker’s hitch. This knot is great because you can add it anywhere along the line that it needed. It begins with a figure of eight loop. The working part of the line is looped around a stake or object and fed back to and through the loop, tension is added to the line and it is locked in place with two half or slippery half hitches. Instead of tying a figure of eight loop, I use a variation of a marlin spike hitch. Instead of feeding a bite from the standing part, I feed it from the working end. The loop will slide a bit until it is secured, but this will work fine for light loads and the knot comes apart with a slight tug. If you have enough line then don’t even bother tying a loop, just feed the line back to the grommet and finish it with two slippery half hitches.

Taut Line Hitch

Taut Line Hitch

The second method is using a friction hitch, also known as the Taut Line Hitch. To tie this, we wrap the working end around the standing line twice, taking two turns, towards the inside of the loop that we are creating, then cross the working end over the turns and standing line and finish it off with a half hitch. If you want to quickly untie this later use a slipper half hitch to finish it off.

Farrimond Friction Hitch

Farrimond Friction Hitch

Here is a variation of a Mooring Hitch known as the Farrimond Friction Hitch. Form a loop with the working part keeping the working end on the bottom of the loop. Take the loop and wrap it over and around the standing line inside of itself two or three times attaching the loop to the line like a prussic knot. Then form a bite from the working end and feed it into the loop, tighten the knot, and adjust it along the guy line to add the desired tension. When you are ready to untie this hitch just grab the working end and pull.

Prusik Knot

Prusik Knot

Another trick using the Prusik Knot is to attach it to your guy line, then girth hitch, or tie it, onto the corner of your tarp. Now you can adjust the tension of your guy lines from the inside of your shelter.

Hardware

From left to right Nite Ize figure 9, Dutchware Fleaz, and Dutchware Wasp.

So, now that you know how to tie all of these knots, lets look at some hardware that can easily replace much of what I have just covered. Keep in mind, you can only carry so much, every ounce counts, and having the knowledge of how to tie these knots can only be beneficial if the hardware is not available.

Tent line tighteners or tensioners.

Tent line tighteners or tensioners are common and come with most tents. They are usually plastic, have three holes that line can be woven through, and are tied off on the third hole. Currently several companies are designing these in a variety of materials and configurations. The purpose of this piece of equipment is to work like an adjustable friction hitch. It slides along the guy line adding tension to the line.

The next three pieces of equipment all work like the Trucker’s Hitch, giving you a leverage point to add tension and a locking point to secure the line.

Nite-Ize Figure 9

Nite Ize Figure Nine’s, on the left is the standard version and on the right the carabiner.

Nite Ize makes some great products that can be found in any outdoor store. The Nite Ize Figure 9 is one of those products that can make your guy line and ridge line setup a breeze. They come in a variety of different sizes, and two different styles: a standard Figure 9 and a carabiner version. They are great for securing and adding tension to a line, but they should not to be used for climbing. Both versions can be attached anywhere along your line. On the standard version, feed a bite of the line through the eye, pull it over the hardware, and then tighten the line to secure it into place. For the carabiner version, start out the same way feeding a bite through the the eye and around the hardware, then take the standing line and wrap it at least once over and through the gate. Now you can wrap your line around an object and back to the hook system. The first hook is designed so you can add tension and the second hook locks the line into place. If you need to add tension between two different lines try their loop method. On the standard version, feed the working end through the eye hole, around the hardware and under the line, like a half hitch. For the carabiner just tie a strong loop knot such as the figure of eight at the end of the line and clip it into place. For both versions attach the other line to the hook system as you would have done before.

Uses: Adjustable Placement Material: Plastic or Aluminum Dimensions: Various sizes Weight: 2 grams to 54 grams Load Limit: 50 to 150 lbs. Rope Sizes: 1/16” (2mm) to 3/16” (5mm) Note: Not for climbing

Dutchware Gear

From left to right Dutchware Fleaz and Wasp.

Nite Ize is a great company, but I’m a huge fan of Dutchware and all of his cool gear. The next two pieces of equipment are constants on my tarp setup: the Dutch Wasp and Fleaz. I primarily use the Wasp on my Ridgeline and the Fleaz for my guy lines, but the Wasp can serve either purpose being that it is designed to be placed anywhere alone a line, and it is locked in place by hitching a bite over the tip of the tail. The Fleaz themselves aren’t as flexible in line positioning as the Wasp but when they are spliced into a loop the possibilities are endless. Both are made out of Titanium making them strong and light weight. The wasp weighs a total of 2 grams and the Fleaz weigh in less than a gram, and both are designed to be used with 1.75 mm line. The tension and locking system is similar to to the Figure 9. The head allows you to add tension to the line like a 3 to 1 pulley, and the line can be locked in place under the wings.

Dutch Wasp, Uses: Adjustable Placement, Material: Titanium, Dimensions: 1.625” x 0.625,” Weight: 2 grams, Rope Sizes: 1.75 mm line

Dutch Fleaz, Uses: Stationary Placement, Material: Titanium, Dimensions: 0.6875” x 0.4375,” Weight: .89 grams, Rope Sizes: 1.75 mm line

Poles

From left to right, a clove hitch on a Leki trekking pole and a marlin spike hitch on a wood stave.

When the weather is nice, why not open up your tarp’s porch and enjoy it. Use either your trekking poles or find the right sized staves in the woods. A marlin spike hitch or clove hitch are great ways to attach a pole to your guy lines. I prefer the clove hitch because it holds onto the poles much better, plus it works great as an anchoring knot for ridge lines. Once the pole is secured set up your guy lines using any of the methods we have already covered. This is also useful when setting up a tarp in an A Frame configuration.

Keeping it Neat

Keep you line neat by wrapping it up in a figure of eight motion between your thumb and pinky finger.

I like keeping my line neat and tangle free for when I need it so here is a tip how you can do this. Start out by looping one end of your line around your thumb, then wrap the line in a figure eight motion between your thumb and your pinky finger, leave enough line so you can wrap up the bundle and tie it off with one or two half hitches.

Video

In the next installment of this series I will be covering five DIY elastic tensioners you can add to your guy lines. Until then keep your eyes and ears open and your powder dry!

 

 

Where to get the Gear:

Dutch Wasp, Dutch Fleaz, Zing-it, Nite Ize Figure 9

Filed Under: Blog, Hitches, Knot Tying, Tarps Tagged With: A guide to tarp and tent guy lines, Bowline Hitch, carabiners, clove hitch, Dutchware, dutchware fleaz, DutchWare Gear, dutchware wasp, farrimond friction hitch, friction hitches, girth hitch, Guy Lines, how to set up guy lines, marlin spike hitch, mason's line, Nite Ize figure Nine, paracord, Prusik Knot, prussic knot, Round Turn and Two Half Hitches, taut line hitch, Tent line tensioners, Tent line tighteners, Trucker's Hitch, tying guylines, Zing-it

3 Tarp Ridgelines: Tied, Toggled & Hardware

November 24, 2015 by Mike 1 Comment

Ridgeline

3 Tarp Ridgelines: Tied, Toggled & Hardware

A ridgeline is a line connected between two points used to suspend a tarp. Ridgelines can be built into the tarp, and all you have to do is attach a line to either side of the tarps peak, via grommets or rings. Where as other tarps require a continuous ridgeline, where a single line is attached between two points or trees and then the tarp is connected, typically using two prusik knots. There are several methods to set this up so lets start with the most basic, tying it up.

One sided

Tied

Tied Ridgeline

We begin by tying a bowline hitch, feed the working end around an object then form a loop on the standing part of the line with the working part on top, and then feed the working end underneath and through the loop, then wrap it under and around the standing part and then back through the loop again. I tuck a bight instead of feeding the line completely through making it easy to untie later.

On the opposing point we are going to tie a Truckers Hitch. First I wrap the working end around a tree and then form a loop in the standing part of the line by feeding in a bight from the working part, now then feed the rest of your working line through the loop, creating a 3 to 1 pulley and then finish it off with a slippery half hitch.

To finish this off we are going to add two Prusik Knots. Cut two pieces of line about 8″ long and create a loop, then wrap the two strands 2 or 3 times inside of itself and pull down on the inner strands, while making sure everything stays neat. Then attach the strands to your tarp using a simple overhand knot. To adjust this knot alone the ridgeline, grab it by the knot and slide.

As a bonus tip, if your tarp has torn out or is missing a grommet or tie-out, you can quickly remedy it with a non-jagged creek or river stone. Simply tuck the stone into the part of the tarp where you want to attach a line, and wrap a loop or prusik knot around the stone and attach it to your ridgeline.


Toggled

Toggled Ridgeline

Now we are going to cover toggles. I start this one out with a figure of eight loop, but any non-slip loop knot will work fine. Feed the line around the tree and then feed a bight from the standing part of the line into the loop and add a toggle or a strong twig between the two, pull tight and lock it into place. On the opposite side you can get creative with a toggle setup but a truckers hitch works just as well.

Again we are going to add two prusik knots but this time we are going to add toggles to each prusik using a girth hitch, which is like a prusik but you’re only making one loop and then attaching the toggle. For this to work you’ll need loops at either end of your tarp, I use soft shackles which are basically rope carabiners. Feed the toggles through your tarp’s loops and slide the prusik to add tension to your tarps ridgeline. The nice thing about this setup is taking it down is as simple as pulling the toggles out of the knots.


Hardware

Hardware Ridgeline

Finally, let’s finish this off with hardware. The point of using hardware is to provide quick attachment or detachment, improve adjustability and to reduce the friction caused by knots. Hardware such as carabiners or Dutch Hooks can replace anchoring knots like the bowline hitch or they can be used on prusik knots to quickly attach or detach your tarp. Products like the Nite Ize Figure 9 or DutchGear like his Tarp Fllz or Wasp can be placed anywhere on the ridgeline and used to replace a trucker’s hitch. There’s a few different products on the market to choose from, but you may want to avoid products that are overly complicated, heavy or have sharp edges. You can get Dutchware from his website www.dutchwaregear.com.

Hammock Setup

Hammock Consideration

For those of you who are hammock campers, you may want to consider leaving a gap at either end of your tarps ridgeline. This is because your hammock is usually set up higher then the ridgeline and this will allow your hammock straps to hang in-between the ends of your ridgeline, reducing any stress added to either line. But it is not completely necessary.

One way of doing this comes from, Derek Hansen from theultimatehang.com. On one end, attach a carabiner to a fixed loop knot and then clip it to both the line and the peak of your tarp. On the opposite side attach a prussic knot to the working part of the line and a carabiner to the prusik, then clip it in the same way as before, adjust the line to where you want it, and then add tension to the line by pulling the excess slack through the prusik.

BLOG SIG

Filed Under: Blog, Knot Tying, Shelter, Tarps Tagged With: Bowline Hitch, bushcraft, camp, camping, continuous ridgeline, DIY ridgeline, dutch fleaz, Dutch Hook, dutch wasp, Figure-of-Eight Loop, hammock camp, Hammock Camping, hammock considerations, hardware ridgeline, hiking, Knot, Knot tying, Knots, nite ize figure 9, nite ize figure 9 carabiner, nite ize s-biner, Plight to Freedom, prepper, Prusik Knot, ridge-line, scouting, survival, survivalist, tarp ridgeline, tarps, Tied ridgeline, toggled ridgeline, Torn out grommet, Trucker's Hitch

5 Knots You Need to Know

November 7, 2015 by Mike Leave a Comment

5 Knots to Know infographic1

The 5 Knots You Need to Know

The five knots we are going to cover are: the bowline hitch, the marlin spike hitch with a truckers hitch variation, a half hitch, a prusik knot and a figure of eight loop.

Bowline Hitch

Let’s start with the bowline hitch, which is used by bowyers to tie loops onto bowstrings and it’s been used by many others as an anchoring point for ridge-lines. The knot is simple to tie; form a loop with the working part on top, then feed the working end around an object then underneath and through the loop, now wrap it under and around the standing part and back through the loop, I tuck a bight instead of feeding the line completely through making it quick and easy to untie this hitch later.

Marlin Spike & Truckers Hitch

The next knot is a marlin spike hitch, simplicity at it’s finest. To tie, basically form a loop and feed in a bight of the line next to it, then tighten. If the line is already attached to an object and you use the standing part of the line as the bight in this hitch, you can lock items into place such as tent stakes that can be used to pull out tent or tarp guy-lines. But, if you use the working part of the line, tightening it up, but still leaving a loop, you can feed the rest of your working line around an object, then through the loop and now you have created a 3 to 1 pulley known as a truckers hitch, great for tightening the slack in any line.

Half Hitch

To finish off this truckers hitch and many other hitches, I use a either a half hitch, or two half hitches. The purpose of this hitch is to lock other hitches into place. To tie you simply tie an overhand knot and then tighten it into place at the base of whatever hitch it originated from. Like the bowline hitch I tuck a bight instead so that I can easily untie this knot later. Occasionally I’ll add another hitch for a little extra security.

Prusik Knot

Sometimes you need a knot that is completely adjustable. Something that will slide along another line and lock into place where ever you need it. That is where the prusik knot comes in handy. Tying this knot is easy; cut a piece of line about 8” long, tie it into a loop using a double or triple fisherman’s knot or just do a simple overhand knot, then wrap the line 2 or 3 times inside of itself and pull down on the inner looping part while making sure everything stays neat. This knot works best if the line used to make the prusik is thinner in diameter than the line you’re attaching it to, but i’ve used the same line before with minimum slippage. To adjust the line, grab it by the knot and slide, pull tight and lock whatever you need into place.

Figure of Eight Loop

Finally the Figure of Eight Loop, a climber’s favorite and one of the strongest knots out there. It’s perfect for when you need a strong, non-slip, loop at the end of a line. There are two ways we can tie this. The first is by doubling the line into an extended bight, then form a loop, and twist the bight behind and around the standing part then over and through the loop. Before completing this knot it should look like the number eight. The other way to tie this knot is to tie a normal, figure of eight knot, then wrap the excess working end around an object and retrace the path of the knot. I’ve found this knot handy for a lot of uses and I’m sure you can to.

Now that I have covered these five knots there is one last thing you should know. Excluding the Figure of eight loop, all of the other knots are simple to untie.

Keep Your eyes and ears open and your powder dry!

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Filed Under: Blog, Hitches, Knot Tying, Knots, Loop Knots, Shelter, Tarps Tagged With: 5 knots you need to know, adventure, backpacking knots, Bowline Hitch, bushcraft, bushcraft knots, camp, camping, camping knots, Figure-of-Eight Loop, half hitch, hammock camp, Hammock Camping, hiking, hiking knots, hunting, Knot tying, marlin spike hitch, mountain man, Ohio, P2F, Plight to Freedom, prepper, Prusik Knot, ridge-line knots, scout knots, scouting, survival, survival knots, tarp knots, Trucker's Hitch

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