Knot Tying Archives - The Cargo Cult Café

Three Ways to Set Up A Tarp Using Trekking Poles

May 17, 2017 by Mike Leave a Comment

A trekking pole is a handy piece of equipment, not only for it’s help navigating in difficult terrain or relieving the strain put on your back, but to also help you setup your shelter for the night. Let’s take a look at three different methods to set up your tarp using trekking poles: the clove hitch, the upside down, and the cross method.

Trekking Pole Clove Hitch Method

The first method obviously involves using a clove hitch. First attach the guy line to the tarp. I normally use a bowline hitch but there are serval options for you to try. Next, clove hitch the guy line onto the handle of the trekking pole. Form two loops the same way and cross the first loop over the second, slip it over the pole and tighten. From there I normally stake it out using a trucker’s hitch but again there are numerous options such as various friction hitches, regular hitches, or hardware.

Upside Down Method

The second method is just as simple, but upside down. Start out by tying an non-slip loop knot such as a bowline hitch or the figure of eight loop, onto one end of your guy line. Turn your trekking pole upside down and slip the loop over the tip of the pole letting it rest on the basket. Insert the tip of the pole into the tarp’s grommet, connect the line around the stake, feed it back up to the loop, add tension, and tie it off with two half-hitches. Alternatively you can tie a loop onto your tarp and proceed in the same manner.

Cross Pole Method

The third and final method is the cross-pole method. This will give you more room to enter and exit an A Frame or Tent-like structure. Again, start out by tying a guy line to the tarp. Holding your poles parallel, slip one of the pole straps over the handle of the other. Pull the strap of the second pole through the strap of the first and loop it over the handle of the first pole. Cross the shafts of the poles and you will create an upside down V, then slightly push the poles down into the ground so that they are freestanding, or nearly so. From here take the guy line and loop it at least once around the handles of the poles, taking a turn, and choose one of the many options you have to add tension to the line and to secure your structure into place.

Special Note: Visit Hocking Hills, Ohio

The footage of the waterfalls is from one of my favorite places in the world, Old Man’s Cave in Hocking Hills, Ohio off of State Route 664. Ever since I was a child this place has captured my imagination as a magical wonderland and in a sense it is, but that is for another post. If you visit Ohio, visit Hocking Hills.

5 Do It Yourself Elastic Tarp Tensioners

February 8, 2017 by Mike Leave a Comment

Here are 5 DIY Elastic Tarp Tensioners anyone can make.

Rain, snow and high winds can put a lot of strain on your tarp or rainfly, especially on its tie out points. Some materials such as silnylon tends to sag when wet, and paracord is known to stretch under tension. Besides spending the cash on a Cuben Fiber tarp or tent, you can add tension your line using a variety of different friction knots and hardware. You can change the cordage on your guy and ridge lines to either Lash-it or Zing-it line, which are extremely strong, light weight, and they do not stretch like paracord. Or, consider adding a little spring to your setup with elastic tensioners.

The purpose of an elastic tensioner is to add tension to your guys if the material begins to sag or if your line begins to stretch, and they conform to the give and take of high winds, so you won’t tear your tie outs.

Bungee cord.

Bungee Cords are one of the easiest kind of tensioners to setup and many people use them as a substitute for their guy lines. When choosing a bungee cord, shop around and test them out. Some bungees have little elasticity and others will stretch, but they lack the strength to pull back to shape. Try finding something with both stretch and strength.

A simple bungee loop.

If the hooks on the ends of your Bungee Cord makes you nervous about attaching them to your tarp, a simple remedy would be to cut the hooks off and tie a Loop into the bungee cord. They can be hitched onto your tie outs and then your guy line can be hitched onto the loop. I have tried this with both bungee and shock cord with good results.

Shock cord guy line tensioner.

Shock Cord tensioners seem to be pretty common amongst tarp enthusiasts. Tie two figure of eight loops in your guy lines about eight inches apart, then take your shock cord and feed it through both loops, tighten the shock cord to the point just before its maximum stretching point, and finish it off with a simple knot.

A piece of bungee cord clove hitched onto a guy line.

As an alternative to using your bungee cord in a loop, try Clove Hitching a 6 to 8 inch piece of bungee cord onto your guy line. Form two loops the exact same way with the working part on the top of each loop. Then tuck the second loop under first loop and slide one end of the bungee cord into the loops and tighten. Then stretch out the cord along the guy line to a point just before its maximum stretching point, mark that spot, and clove hitch the other end of the bungee onto it. I like this one because it is simple, quick to tie, and you can add the elastic tensioner anywhere along the line that it is needed.

Thera-band tarp tensioner.

In a previous video I showed you how to make a Thera-Band Tarp Tensioner. This tensioner is definitely more difficult to make compared to the other methods, but it is one of my go to’s when setting up my tarp. Here is a quick summary of how you can make your own. Choose a strong, lightweight line that does not stretch under tension and tie a figure of eight on one end of the line. Feed the line through a section of Thera-Band and pull the band about an inch over the knot and lash it down on the loop side of the knot, then roll the excess band over the lashing to make it look nice and lock the lashing into place. Stretch the elastic tubing along the inner cordage until it the tube reaches it’s near maximum stretching point, tie another figure of eight loop at that point and repeat the same process on this side.

Keep your eyes and ears open and your powder dry!

Know Your Knots: A Guide to Knots for Just About Everything

January 27, 2017 by Mike 2 Comments

The need and usefulness of knots is something most people don’t think about until they are confronted with a tangled mess and disastrous knot. Been there, done that! This ancient skill has allowed mankind to sail around the world, climb impossible mountains, build homes and structures, acquire food, secure objects, tie the Christmas tree to the roof of our cars, and most importantly save lives. There are literally thousands of different kinds of knots and tens of ways to tie each one. Here is a great Infographic from Fix.com and PT Winchester explaining the most basic ones to get you started exploring the world or making things easier around the home.

Image attribution to Fix.com and www.ptwinchester.co.uk

A Comprehensive Guide to Tarp and Tent Guy Lines

January 19, 2017 by Mike 2 Comments

A Comprehensive Guide to Tarp and Tent Guy Lines

If you are a tarp enthusiast then you already know that a ridge line is the backbone and guy lines are the appendages of this structure. Guy Lines are tensioned cables or lines designed to add stability to a free-standing structure. In this video I am going to cover several different ways to set up guy lines so you can set up your tarp for maximum comfort.

Line

A variety of line one can choose from for their outdoor experience.

There are a lot of different cordages that one could choose when setting up your ridge or guy lines, and some are better than others, but ultimately it comes down to personal preference. Traditionalists and reenactors typically use natural fibers, and survivalists and preppers tend to favor paracord. I’ve seen ultralight guys use mason’s line, many people in the hammock community use Lash-it or Zing-it line, and others will use whatever is available. After using a variety different kinds of line, my preference is Zing-it because it is lightweight, strong, it is not slippery so it easily holds friction hitches, and it has little stretch under tension.

Zing-it line is common amongst the hammock community.

Attachment to Tarp

Bowline Hitch

One of the most common ways to attach your line to a tie out or grommet is by using a Bowline Hitch. Feed your line into the tie out, then form a loop in the standing part of the line with the working part on top. Now feed the working end through the back of the loop, behind and around the standing line and back through the loop once more, then tighten. Or, instead of attaching your line directly to your tie outs, you can tie a loop onto one end of your guy lines and either girth hitch it onto the tie outs or use small carabiners for quick attachment and detachment.

Attachment to Stake

From left to right, clove hitch, marlin spike hitch, and a round turn and two half hitches.

In a previous video I showed how to tie off guy lines to your stakes, but in case you didn’t see it, here is a quick recap. A clove hitch, a marlin spike hitch and a round turn and two slippery half hitches are three great knots that will do the trick.

Adjustable Knots

Now that we know how to attach our guy lines and tie off our stakes, lets take a look at how we can add tension to our lines using a variety of hitches.

Trucker’s Hitch

Trucker’s Hitch with a figure of eight loop and a slippery half hitch.

Lets start this out with one of the most used knots to add tension to a line: a trucker’s hitch. This knot is great because you can add it anywhere along the line that it needed. It begins with a figure of eight loop. The working part of the line is looped around a stake or object and fed back to and through the loop, tension is added to the line and it is locked in place with two half or slippery half hitches. Instead of tying a figure of eight loop, I use a variation of a marlin spike hitch. Instead of feeding a bite from the standing part, I feed it from the working end. The loop will slide a bit until it is secured, but this will work fine for light loads and the knot comes apart with a slight tug. If you have enough line then don’t even bother tying a loop, just feed the line back to the grommet and finish it with two slippery half hitches.

Taut Line Hitch

Taut Line Hitch

The second method is using a friction hitch, also known as the Taut Line Hitch. To tie this, we wrap the working end around the standing line twice, taking two turns, towards the inside of the loop that we are creating, then cross the working end over the turns and standing line and finish it off with a half hitch. If you want to quickly untie this later use a slipper half hitch to finish it off.

Farrimond Friction Hitch

Farrimond Friction Hitch

Here is a variation of a Mooring Hitch known as the Farrimond Friction Hitch. Form a loop with the working part keeping the working end on the bottom of the loop. Take the loop and wrap it over and around the standing line inside of itself two or three times attaching the loop to the line like a prussic knot. Then form a bite from the working end and feed it into the loop, tighten the knot, and adjust it along the guy line to add the desired tension. When you are ready to untie this hitch just grab the working end and pull.

Prusik Knot

Prusik Knot

Another trick using the Prusik Knot is to attach it to your guy line, then girth hitch, or tie it, onto the corner of your tarp. Now you can adjust the tension of your guy lines from the inside of your shelter.

Hardware

From left to right Nite Ize figure 9, Dutchware Fleaz, and Dutchware Wasp.

So, now that you know how to tie all of these knots, lets look at some hardware that can easily replace much of what I have just covered. Keep in mind, you can only carry so much, every ounce counts, and having the knowledge of how to tie these knots can only be beneficial if the hardware is not available.

Tent line tighteners or tensioners.

Tent line tighteners or tensioners are common and come with most tents. They are usually plastic, have three holes that line can be woven through, and are tied off on the third hole. Currently several companies are designing these in a variety of materials and configurations. The purpose of this piece of equipment is to work like an adjustable friction hitch. It slides along the guy line adding tension to the line.

The next three pieces of equipment all work like the Trucker’s Hitch, giving you a leverage point to add tension and a locking point to secure the line.

Nite-Ize Figure 9

Nite Ize Figure Nine’s, on the left is the standard version and on the right the carabiner.

Nite Ize makes some great products that can be found in any outdoor store. The Nite Ize Figure 9 is one of those products that can make your guy line and ridge line setup a breeze. They come in a variety of different sizes, and two different styles: a standard Figure 9 and a carabiner version. They are great for securing and adding tension to a line, but they should not to be used for climbing. Both versions can be attached anywhere along your line. On the standard version, feed a bite of the line through the eye, pull it over the hardware, and then tighten the line to secure it into place. For the carabiner version, start out the same way feeding a bite through the the eye and around the hardware, then take the standing line and wrap it at least once over and through the gate. Now you can wrap your line around an object and back to the hook system. The first hook is designed so you can add tension and the second hook locks the line into place. If you need to add tension between two different lines try their loop method. On the standard version, feed the working end through the eye hole, around the hardware and under the line, like a half hitch. For the carabiner just tie a strong loop knot such as the figure of eight at the end of the line and clip it into place. For both versions attach the other line to the hook system as you would have done before.

Uses: Adjustable Placement Material: Plastic or Aluminum Dimensions: Various sizes Weight: 2 grams to 54 grams Load Limit: 50 to 150 lbs. Rope Sizes: 1/16” (2mm) to 3/16” (5mm) Note: Not for climbing

Dutchware Gear

From left to right Dutchware Fleaz and Wasp.

Nite Ize is a great company, but I’m a huge fan of Dutchware and all of his cool gear. The next two pieces of equipment are constants on my tarp setup: the Dutch Wasp and Fleaz. I primarily use the Wasp on my Ridgeline and the Fleaz for my guy lines, but the Wasp can serve either purpose being that it is designed to be placed anywhere alone a line, and it is locked in place by hitching a bite over the tip of the tail. The Fleaz themselves aren’t as flexible in line positioning as the Wasp but when they are spliced into a loop the possibilities are endless. Both are made out of Titanium making them strong and light weight. The wasp weighs a total of 2 grams and the Fleaz weigh in less than a gram, and both are designed to be used with 1.75 mm line. The tension and locking system is similar to to the Figure 9. The head allows you to add tension to the line like a 3 to 1 pulley, and the line can be locked in place under the wings.

Dutch Wasp, Uses: Adjustable Placement, Material: Titanium, Dimensions: 1.625” x 0.625,” Weight: 2 grams, Rope Sizes: 1.75 mm line

Dutch Fleaz, Uses: Stationary Placement, Material: Titanium, Dimensions: 0.6875” x 0.4375,” Weight: .89 grams, Rope Sizes: 1.75 mm line

Poles

From left to right, a clove hitch on a Leki trekking pole and a marlin spike hitch on a wood stave.

When the weather is nice, why not open up your tarp’s porch and enjoy it. Use either your trekking poles or find the right sized staves in the woods. A marlin spike hitch or clove hitch are great ways to attach a pole to your guy lines. I prefer the clove hitch because it holds onto the poles much better, plus it works great as an anchoring knot for ridge lines. Once the pole is secured set up your guy lines using any of the methods we have already covered. This is also useful when setting up a tarp in an A Frame configuration.

Keeping it Neat

Keep you line neat by wrapping it up in a figure of eight motion between your thumb and pinky finger.

I like keeping my line neat and tangle free for when I need it so here is a tip how you can do this. Start out by looping one end of your line around your thumb, then wrap the line in a figure eight motion between your thumb and your pinky finger, leave enough line so you can wrap up the bundle and tie it off with one or two half hitches.

Video

In the next installment of this series I will be covering five DIY elastic tensioners you can add to your guy lines. Until then keep your eyes and ears open and your powder dry!

Where to get the Gear:

Dutch Wasp, Dutch Fleaz, Zing-it, Nite Ize Figure 9

Tent Stakes & How to Use Them

December 29, 2016 by Mike 9 Comments

Tent Stakes

All good structures start with a strong foundation. When it comes to tarps and tents that begins with choosing the right tent stakes for the soil conditions in which you will be encountering. I will be covering a few common tent stakes, how to use them, and some alternatives for the worst case scenarios.

Tent Stakes

We are all familiar with Tent Stakes or pegs, also known as J-hooks or Shepard Hooks, they are the stakes that come with most tents. You can find them in a variety of materials such as titanium, aluminum, or steel, weighing from a quarter of an ounce up to 3 ounces, and varying in length from 6.5 to 8.25 Inches long. They work well in firm soil but they don’t hold fast in soft or sandy conditions, high winds, and they are prone to bending while being hammered into rocky ground.

MSR Groundhog and Mini-Groundhog.

That is why I prefer MSR Groundhogs. This stakes’ three sided, Y-beam, design provides extra holding power in a wide varieties of soil conditions, they can handle being hammered into rocky soil, and they stay anchored in high winds. They are made out of aluminum, weigh half an ounce, and are 7.5 inches long. If you prefer something a bit smaller and lighter, then try the Mini-Groundhogs. They are 6 inches long, weigh ten grams a piece, and are almost as effective as their larger sibling in many soil conditions. The notch at the top of the stake is perfect for securing guy-lines, and the reflective nylon pull-cord allows easy visibility and removal. When staking out the groundhogs, make sure the top of the Y is facing away from the tarp and use the lower portion of the Y as a guide, pointing your line back to the tarp or tent. This will give the stake more holding power because as the line is pulled in the direction of the tarp, force is put on the opposing side of the stake. The upper portion of the Y, and that force, is distributed throughout the back surface area giving the stake more holding power.

Snow stakes from REI.

If you need something with even more holding power for snow or sandy situations, consider using Snow or Blizzard Stakes. They are made out of aluminum, each weight about an ounce and are 9.6 inches long. In packed snow or sand, they can be used like normal tent stakes, but if you want to utilize them to their full potential, use them in a Deadman. To set up a deadman feed your line through two of the holes along the stake and tie it off with a bowline hitch on the inside curve of the stake. Decide where you want to place the stake and dig a hole deep enough to bury it where it will remain secure. In icy situations, leave a stick on the ground, under the line, where the line protrudes from the snow to cut down on friction with ice. A few alternatives to using sand or snow pegs in a deadman are using a stick, a bandana or even a stuff sack.

Angle

Proper tent stake angle, vertical.

When driving tent stakes into the ground, you don’t have to go along with the old 90 degree angle technique, where your line and stake form a 90 degree angle when it is placed in the ground. It is thought that this old method will give you maximum holding power from your stakes to your guy lines, but there have been studies and tests that show the most effective way to position a stake is vertically straight up and down, with a possible 10 to 15 degree variance. After 15 degrees the stake reduces its holding power by up to 30 percent. The two major factors that you needs to consider when choosing an effective stake is its length and surface area. The longer the stake is and the more surface area it has, the better it will hold in a variety of circumstances.

Old 90 degree angle technique.

Attachment

Loop, with Dutch Fleaz, added to tie outs.

There are several ways you can attach a stake to your tarp or tent. At the corners of my tarp, I attach loops which can serve several purposes: regular cordage, bungee or shock cord will work fine. Simply feed the stake through the loop and stake it out. In high wind situations, double up the loop for extra security. If you like the idea of quickly releasing your tarp from your stake or just want to try something fancy, girth hitch a toggle or small stick into your setup. There is no need to untie anything later, just pull out the stick. Or, you can add some bling to your stakes with some hardware.

Three hitches for tying off guy lines to stakes: Round Turn and Two Half Hitches, Marlin Spike Hitch, and Clove Hitch.

Regardless if you’re a tent or tarp person you will need to know how to attach guy-lines to a stake. Here are three options for tying your guy-lines to your stakes. First let’s start out with a round turn and two slippery half hitches. Wrap the guy-line completely around the stake, taking a turn, then form a bite in the working end and tie two half hitches onto the line. The second way you can tie off your guy-line is by using a marlin spike hitch. Form a loop in your line, then feed a bite from the standing part of the line into the loop, slide the stake between the bite and the loop, pull it tight, and stake it out. The third method is tying a clove hitch. Wrap the guy-line around the stake and do a turn under the standing line, then finish it with a half hitch and tighten. The second way I tie this is by forming two loops the exact same way with the working part on the top of each loop. Then tuck the second loop under first loop, slide the stake into the loops and tighten. All three of these knots will hold fast if you need to reposition your stakes to achieve a tighter tarp.

Alternatives

Eventually every camper will run into a few snags in the field. Maybe you forgot or lost your stakes between where you currently are and where your stakes might actually be, and there is no time to go back looking for them. Maybe your stakes get too bent out of shape, broken, or just won’t work with the soil conditions where you are camping. Here are a few field expedient tips that might just bail you out.

Wood Stake

Wood stakes are easy to produce. Simply find a few twigs from a freshly broken limb of a hardwood tree, about the diameter of your thumb, and cut them down to 8 to 10 inches in length. Sharpen one end of the twig to a point and on the opposite end cut a notch on the upper part of stake, this will help by keeping the line locked onto the stake. Pound it into the ground and you are good to go.

Anchor Hitch

Depending upon where you set up camp, you may be limited on options as to how you are going to stake out your tarp, but there are always several alternative opportunities for any situation. On occasion I have tied my guy-lines out to roots, logs, and even rocks. When tying off to a rock I use a Killick Hitch also known as an Anchor Hitch. This one starts out as a Timber Hitch, feed the working end under the rock, back up to and around the standing line, now tuck it under and twist it around and back down the line as many times as you feel necessary. Then tighten it by pulling on the standing line. On the opposite side of the rock finish it off with a half hitch. This hitch is strong enough to hold a rock as you pick it up and will even hold while being thrown. Don’t forget the obvious application of this hitch, its great for canoeing and kayaking. Why carry that heavy anchor when you can just pick one up off of the ground?

Video

In the next part of this series I will be covering guy lines and several ways to set them up. Until then, keep your eyes and ears open and your powder dry!

Where to buy tent stakes and other equipment

3 Tarp Ridgelines: Tied, Toggled & Hardware

November 24, 2015 by Mike 1 Comment

3 Tarp Ridgelines: Tied, Toggled & Hardware

A ridgeline is a line connected between two points used to suspend a tarp. Ridgelines can be built into the tarp, and all you have to do is attach a line to either side of the tarps peak, via grommets or rings. Where as other tarps require a continuous ridgeline, where a single line is attached between two points or trees and then the tarp is connected, typically using two prusik knots. There are several methods to set this up so lets start with the most basic, tying it up.

Tied Ridgeline

We begin by tying a bowline hitch, feed the working end around an object then form a loop on the standing part of the line with the working part on top, and then feed the working end underneath and through the loop, then wrap it under and around the standing part and then back through the loop again. I tuck a bight instead of feeding the line completely through making it easy to untie later.

On the opposing point we are going to tie a Truckers Hitch. First I wrap the working end around a tree and then form a loop in the standing part of the line by feeding in a bight from the working part, now then feed the rest of your working line through the loop, creating a 3 to 1 pulley and then finish it off with a slippery half hitch.

To finish this off we are going to add two Prusik Knots. Cut two pieces of line about 8″ long and create a loop, then wrap the two strands 2 or 3 times inside of itself and pull down on the inner strands, while making sure everything stays neat. Then attach the strands to your tarp using a simple overhand knot. To adjust this knot alone the ridgeline, grab it by the knot and slide.

As a bonus tip, if your tarp has torn out or is missing a grommet or tie-out, you can quickly remedy it with a non-jagged creek or river stone. Simply tuck the stone into the part of the tarp where you want to attach a line, and wrap a loop or prusik knot around the stone and attach it to your ridgeline.

Toggled Ridgeline

Now we are going to cover toggles. I start this one out with a figure of eight loop, but any non-slip loop knot will work fine. Feed the line around the tree and then feed a bight from the standing part of the line into the loop and add a toggle or a strong twig between the two, pull tight and lock it into place. On the opposite side you can get creative with a toggle setup but a truckers hitch works just as well.

Again we are going to add two prusik knots but this time we are going to add toggles to each prusik using a girth hitch, which is like a prusik but you’re only making one loop and then attaching the toggle. For this to work you’ll need loops at either end of your tarp, I use soft shackles which are basically rope carabiners. Feed the toggles through your tarp’s loops and slide the prusik to add tension to your tarps ridgeline. The nice thing about this setup is taking it down is as simple as pulling the toggles out of the knots.

Hardware Ridgeline

Finally, let’s finish this off with hardware. The point of using hardware is to provide quick attachment or detachment, improve adjustability and to reduce the friction caused by knots. Hardware such as carabiners or Dutch Hooks can replace anchoring knots like the bowline hitch or they can be used on prusik knots to quickly attach or detach your tarp. Products like the Nite Ize Figure 9 or DutchGear like his Tarp Fllz or Wasp can be placed anywhere on the ridgeline and used to replace a trucker’s hitch. There’s a few different products on the market to choose from, but you may want to avoid products that are overly complicated, heavy or have sharp edges. You can get Dutchware from his website www.dutchwaregear.com.

Hammock Consideration

For those of you who are hammock campers, you may want to consider leaving a gap at either end of your tarps ridgeline. This is because your hammock is usually set up higher then the ridgeline and this will allow your hammock straps to hang in-between the ends of your ridgeline, reducing any stress added to either line. But it is not completely necessary.

One way of doing this comes from, Derek Hansen from theultimatehang.com. On one end, attach a carabiner to a fixed loop knot and then clip it to both the line and the peak of your tarp. On the opposite side attach a prussic knot to the working part of the line and a carabiner to the prusik, then clip it in the same way as before, adjust the line to where you want it, and then add tension to the line by pulling the excess slack through the prusik.

5 Knots You Need to Know

November 7, 2015 by Mike Leave a Comment

The 5 Knots You Need to Know

The five knots we are going to cover are: the bowline hitch, the marlin spike hitch with a truckers hitch variation, a half hitch, a prusik knot and a figure of eight loop.

Bowline Hitch

Let’s start with the bowline hitch, which is used by bowyers to tie loops onto bowstrings and it’s been used by many others as an anchoring point for ridge-lines. The knot is simple to tie; form a loop with the working part on top, then feed the working end around an object then underneath and through the loop, now wrap it under and around the standing part and back through the loop, I tuck a bight instead of feeding the line completely through making it quick and easy to untie this hitch later.

Marlin Spike & Truckers Hitch

The next knot is a marlin spike hitch, simplicity at it’s finest. To tie, basically form a loop and feed in a bight of the line next to it, then tighten. If the line is already attached to an object and you use the standing part of the line as the bight in this hitch, you can lock items into place such as tent stakes that can be used to pull out tent or tarp guy-lines. But, if you use the working part of the line, tightening it up, but still leaving a loop, you can feed the rest of your working line around an object, then through the loop and now you have created a 3 to 1 pulley known as a truckers hitch, great for tightening the slack in any line.

Half Hitch

To finish off this truckers hitch and many other hitches, I use a either a half hitch, or two half hitches. The purpose of this hitch is to lock other hitches into place. To tie you simply tie an overhand knot and then tighten it into place at the base of whatever hitch it originated from. Like the bowline hitch I tuck a bight instead so that I can easily untie this knot later. Occasionally I’ll add another hitch for a little extra security.

Prusik Knot

Sometimes you need a knot that is completely adjustable. Something that will slide along another line and lock into place where ever you need it. That is where the prusik knot comes in handy. Tying this knot is easy; cut a piece of line about 8” long, tie it into a loop using a double or triple fisherman’s knot or just do a simple overhand knot, then wrap the line 2 or 3 times inside of itself and pull down on the inner looping part while making sure everything stays neat. This knot works best if the line used to make the prusik is thinner in diameter than the line you’re attaching it to, but i’ve used the same line before with minimum slippage. To adjust the line, grab it by the knot and slide, pull tight and lock whatever you need into place.

Figure of Eight Loop

Finally the Figure of Eight Loop, a climber’s favorite and one of the strongest knots out there. It’s perfect for when you need a strong, non-slip, loop at the end of a line. There are two ways we can tie this. The first is by doubling the line into an extended bight, then form a loop, and twist the bight behind and around the standing part then over and through the loop. Before completing this knot it should look like the number eight. The other way to tie this knot is to tie a normal, figure of eight knot, then wrap the excess working end around an object and retrace the path of the knot. I’ve found this knot handy for a lot of uses and I’m sure you can to.

Now that I have covered these five knots there is one last thing you should know. Excluding the Figure of eight loop, all of the other knots are simple to untie.

Keep Your eyes and ears open and your powder dry!

Tying a Dutch Hook into a Brummel Eye Splice

October 30, 2015 by Mike Leave a Comment

A Dutch Hook is a small, titanium, hook designed to be attached to either; the end of your ridge-line or a Prusik knot, making for a quick setup of your tarp. They weigh only .4 grams and can be tied or spliced onto 1.75 mm Zing-it or Lash-it line. All you have to do is wrap the line around a tree and clip the hook into place. You can get these great quality Dutch Hooks from DutchWare Gear.

To set this up, first we are going to need some materials: I am using a single braid, 1.75 mm, Lash-it line, a Dutch Hook, some very thin jewelry wire stolen from my wife, and a multitool with pliers.

Let’s begin by feeding the working end of the line through the eye hole of the Dutch Hook, and decide how big of a loop you want, but leave 2-3” of line beyond the point where you want base of the loop to be, for a stronger splice.

Now push the Lash-it line together, like a Chinese finger trap, on the standing portion of the line where you want the loop to be, and feed the loop of the wire, created by folding it in half, through the hole and place the working end of the line into the metal loop, then pull it back through the hole, and readjust the loop to where you want it to be.

Next we are going to do the same thing to the working end. Push the line of the working end together, just below your first pass on the standing part, and feed the wire through to the opposite side, grab onto the standing end and pull the entire standing part through the line. These two passes through the standing part of the line is called a Marlin splice.

Now we are going to finish this off by tucking the excess working end into the standing part of the line for a stronger splice that looks clean. Stretch the lines out, parallel to each other, and find a point 1/4” to 1/2” beyond the end of the working end, on the standing part of the line. At this point, squeeze the line together like you have before but this time feed the wire through the inside part of the hollow braided line towards the loop, coming out just below the point of your second pass. Grab the excess working line and pull it back through. I found it to be easier if I keep the line of the standing part scrunched up while I pushed the wire through and pulled the working end back, tucking it into place.

Finally, starting at the base of the loop, I used my fingers to work the line and stretch it out, covering the working end and completing the splice.

Keep your eyes and ears open and your powder dry!

Double Fisherman’s Knot

April 15, 2015 by Mike Leave a Comment

Double Fisherman’s Knot

Double Fisherman’s Knot is an essential knot to know for camping, climbing, fishing and for general purposes. I use this quite often to attach two lines together for those times when I’m just short of line. It’s easy to tie: Basically tie a double overhand knot with each line to the opposite line. Pull the lines apart and the two knots lock to each other.

Check out the video below for a step by step instructional on how to tie a double fisherman’s knot.

Keep your eyes and ears open and your powder dry!

Fisherman’s Knot

April 8, 2015 by Mike Leave a Comment

Fisherman’s Knot

Fisherman’s Knot is an essential knot to know for camping, climbing, fishing and for general purposes. I use this quite often to attach two lines together for those times when I’m just short of line. It’s easy to tie: Basically tie an overhand knot with each line to the opposite line. Pull the lines apart and the two knots lock to each other.

Check out the video below for a step by step instructional on how to tie a fisherman’s knot.

Keep your eyes and ears open and your powder dry!